Since the danios hang out at the middle and top layer, get something for the bottom. Like 5-6 cory catfish.
Or if you want something with color maybe a small school of cherry barbs.

No bala sharks, your tank isnt big enough. They need to be in groups of 5 or more, they get 14 inches and are very active and skittish fish. This was about 8 inches when he was dumped off at the store and he spazzed and bashed his face on the cover of the 33 gallon he was in.

I would do at least a third of the tank.

Goldfish are horrible for beginners. They are dirty, they get large and aren't as hardy as people think. Beginners dont know enough to provide the correct size aquarium or pond for the poor goldfish. And 5-10 is an age that a fish that is being abused and neglected might make it to if its lucky. I know lots of people who have goldfish into their 20s.
I have personally seen 14 inch black moors. I can post a picture of a 15 inch oranda that made it to 16 inches.

Not true. Bettas are only aggressive to themselves and to fish that look like them such as male fancy guppies.
The tank has to be at least 5 gallons because they can be territorial in anything under that.
Bowls are for candy or flowers, not fish. Bettas being tropical should be provided with a tank of at least 2-5 gallons with a filter and a heater. People who use the excuse "they come from puddles" are really idiots. They come from ponds, streams, and rice paddies. Rice paddies are expansive bodies of water with other fish, plants, and insects....a whole ecosystem.
I had a betta in a 5.5 with neon tetras. They can be housed with platies, bloodfin tetras, dwarf frogs, female fancy guppies, white cloud mountain minnows, cory cats, and others i cant remember off the top of my head. Fish that are too nippy such as semi aggressives tend to shred a bettas fins. Gouramis are from the same family as bettas and tend to win the fight.

Cycling with fish weakens them, if not outright killing them. So if you used these danios to cycle your 14 gallon, they probably arent going to surive this cycle.
When i first got into fish, i cycled my 30 gallon with 6 zebra danios. As i did more research, i realize its best to do a fishless cycle. Im doing a fishless cycle on my 5.5 and 2.5 gallon. Im using live plants, bacterial additives, and a bit of rotten fish food.

8 yrs is too young for a goldfish to die. Properly cared for they can live over 20 yrs. The oldest goldfish died at the age of 43 and it was just a feeder fish that was won at a fair.

It takes atleast 4-6 weeks for a tank to stabilize.
http://www.bestfish.com/newtank3.html

Have you tested your water parameters?

Its not the bubble bars.
Do an immediate partial water change, make sure not to let the water drop below 50 percent. Add aquarium salt 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. And get some Maracyn-2. Ive never had issues with Maracyn killing the nitrifying bacteria so it should be fine to add.

White is good
Just watch the fish for any signs of stress like redness around the gills and fins, or gasping at the surface, or sitting on the bottom gasping, or clamped fins, lethargy, or itching themselves on rocks and decorations. Do an immediate partial water change to alleviate stress. But continue with small weekly partial water changes.

Its clear now but wont be when the tank starts cycling. Did you use the water in the 14 gallon?
You should wait 6 weeks before getting any algae eaters. In my experience they cant really handle the ammonia spike and the nitrite spike.

Goldfish are a bad choice for that 14 gallon. The rule is 10 gallons per goldfish and that's only temporary since all goldfish grow large.

I have heard good things about the bio wheel in it, but i have never used that brand. I have whisper filters on mine.

Water parameters change when you dont change the water often. Your pH drops, water becomes acidic, and nitrate levels rise. Then when you do your big water change ever 6-7 months, you shock the crap out of your fish because the parameters in your water source are drastically different.

Small, frequent water changes are healthier for the fish, less work, easy, and keep the algae levels down. An algae eater needs more then what grows in your tank to survive and they also add to the problem because they are dirty fish. A variety of fish isnt needed, it is better to under stock an aquarium then to overstock it.
The only chemical that is truly needed is a water conditioner that removes chlorine and chloramines.

All of my fish tanks are near windows and get sunlight hitting them through out the day. Ive never had green water. It could be your water source.

Wrought Iron stands usually have space underneath them for a second tank. I have a 20 inch iron stand with a 10 gallon tank on top with a gecko in it and a 10 gallon on the bottom part with a couple of baby snakes in it. Same with a 48x18" stand with a 75 gallon on top and a 55 gallon on the bottom. O and a 24" stand with a 20 high on the bottom and a 20 long on top which overhangs 3 inches on each side but its ok since i just have snakes in them. 3 of my fish tanks are on wooden cabinet stands because i store my supplies underneath. My other 2 tanks are small tanks on my night stand.

Test strips are not accurate. Liquid tests are more accurate.
You should be doing small partial water changes weekly. I would ditch the Easy Balance. Regular partial water changes will keep your parameters stable. On a tank that has been set up as long as yours, should have no ammonia and no nitrites. Frequent partials will control your nitrates. You should invest in some live plants, they will add oxygen and out compete algae for food by consuming the nitrates.
If the cloudiness is green its algae spores. You can try covering the fish tank with a blanket for 4 days. No light and dont feed the fish. The darkness will kill the algae spores. Or you can do it the chemical way and add in a tiny bit of Tetra Pond Water Clarifyer. It will clump the algae together and clear the tank in 2 days. Now its not a permanent fix, whatever is causing the bloom will make the algae spores come back. It could be too much light, sunlight hitting the tank, excess phosphates in your water source, or not enough tank maintenance.
If the cloudiness is white, then it is just a bacterial bloom. Something killed off a bunch of nitrifying bacteria and they are reestablishing themselves. Adding something like Biozyme will help or you could just wait it out.
If you are going to add an algae eater i would wait until your parameters are perfect because they can be sensitive. Especially plecos. Also since you have only a 14 gallon, you should get a small species. Algae eaters may eat some types of algae but they need supplementation of algae wafers, cucumber, zucchini, aquatic plants, and driftwood. They will not survive long on what grows in your tank. Common plecos can get 24 inches, gibbicep aka sailfin plecos can get 18 inches. For a 14 gallon you could get away with a bushynose pleco or clown pleco. They only grow 3-5 inches. I have a bushynose in one of my tanks, hes my fave. I have a 9 inch common pleco in another one of my tanks, he is cool but he defecates ALOT.

Here are some decent articles.
http://www.bestfish.com/breakin.html
http://www.bestfish.com/wtrchang.html
http://www.bestfish.com/oldtank.html